JAWing On – Life on Okinawa

In May each year, Okinawan weather officials proudly announce the official rainy season has begun. This usually occurs two or three weeks after a daily onslaught of torrential downpours has pelted the island until it resembles an over-saturated sponge. And each year, around the beginning of July, they pronounce the”official end” of the rainy season. Still, Mother Nature with a mind of her own tosses several tropical cyclone systems our way to remind us mortals that we have absolutely no control over her power. At the end of each rainy onslaught, the creatures and critters that have been in hiding return. The air fills with a symphony of bird and locust duets. Along with these more pleasant reminders of nature comes Okinawa’s native dive bomber, the gokiburi – more commonly known to Americans as the cockroach. The local variety of this ever-present species is so large even Texans would be proud to claim it as their own! I remember my first encounter with these locals. I saw one scampering across the wall of our first apartment. With nobody else around to take care of it, I bravely (or at least I thought I was being brave) grabbed a broom and swung at the wall. This particular gokiburi must have found the whole thing extremely amusing, because just as the broom was about to make contact with it and the wall, the thing came swooshing down at me. There I was a grown human, ducking and screaming like a mass murderer was attacking me! Although I despise the native dive bombers, I’ve learned to accept that they are a part of living on Okinawa. So each year, after the rains, I grab my collection of gokiburi weapons and the battle begins.

Continuing on the subject of food, much has changed in the past 30 years as far a local cuisine. There are so many gourmet ethnic restaurants, I bet someone could dine-out for breakfast, lunch, and dinner for well over one year and never use the same establishment once! Numerous mainland Japanese companies have brought their well-established restaurant chains to Okinawa in the past 10 years. Also, quite a few local chefs have shared their culinary talents, spiced with original local twists, by opening independent restaurants. Many of these eateries provide full-course dinners that make your mouth water at the thought of their delicacies. Several of the items offered by the chefs are not even available at local super markets. (The chefs grow their own herbs or have contracts with local farmers for the produce.) With all of this “gourmetization” Okinawans have seemed to have forgotten one of the truly scrumptious staples of local cuisine from the ’70s, Obaa Curry!!! Not the boxed type, the kind that is made from scratch with yellow curry powder and is crammed full of chunky vegetables like potatoes, carrots, onions, and bell peppers. It used to be found everywhere on Okinawa. But like many of the smaller Mom & Pop stores in the Midwest U.S., it is almost impossible to locate a restaurant that serves the staple anymore! It may not have the glamorous image projected by fancy steak and lobster dinners. It doesn’t even have the marketability of the ever present goya—you can’t make obaa curry juice for export, or obaa curry maracas for Japanese tourists, or even cute little obaa curry animated characters for TV commercials—but to see this particular item go the way of the dinosaurs would be, in my opinion, a great loss indeed.

Okay, what is it with people who seem to be totally oblivious to other customers who were there before them? The locals seem to be really bad at this one! Every weekend I get any number of reactions when I have to tell these inconsiderate people to wait their turn. Do they really think that their particular desire for a beverage is greater than the that of the other people who are patiently and politely waiting their chance to place an order? Do they really believe that acting like a little brat, by slapping the counter, yelling “Hey”, or even trying to come behind the counter is going to ingratiate thier presence in my eyes. Does it really have to be necessary for me to point out that they are being rude to the other persons that are there before them? Do they really, really think I enjoy interrupting service to other customers, it isn’t going to get them their order any faster!!!

Finally a free moment! As expected, Peaceful Love Rock Festival week was a constant challenge. We didn’t escape the second typhoon totally unscathed. All weekend, blankets of rain covered the island. Yet it didn’t seem to stop the determined fans who attended the concert. On Sunday, most of us ended-up with a wet bottom, at the least. And completely drenched at the worst. Fans were slip-sliding all over the outdoor stadium. On the good side, the rain kept the fire ants from attacking our feet this year. The bands bravely forged forward undaunted by the puddles that were accumulating on stage. Just as my husband’s band was three-fourths finished, the clouds began to break and the sky lightened. Unfortunately, his decision to have the failing veteran guitarist play did slightly slap him in the face, but it was survivable. I know it had to be difficult for him to risk his band’s reputation for the sake of allowing the guitarist to play what will probably be his last Peaceful Love gig. Although I didn’t agree with the decision, because the guitarist has continually shown total disregard for the band’s welfare. I understand and respect my husband for his choice…and life goes on!

When is enough, enough! For the past ten years my husband and the various drummers of his band have basically been carrying the lead guitarist. He once was one of the true naturally-talented guitarists around. Unfortunately, he can’t control his personal habits, mainly drinking. Year after year, the affects of his indulgences have increasingly disminished his musical capabilities. Four years ago, he ended-up in the hospital and was diagnosed with diabetes. Even this didn’t convince him to change his course. About one year ago, he fell off the stage and went into 4 seperate seizures. Once again, he continued on his deadly course. This year he has been in and out of the hospital twice already. Last night was his first night back since the latest stint in the hospital. He has finally reached a point where he can varily play one complete song. Still my husband refuses to even consider replacing him as the main guitarist, after all “old musician’s don’t die, they just fade away.” I understand that, maybe just maybe–with sugar on top–the guitarist might be able to return to some level of competency, if he is willing to put in a lot of practice time. But, there must be a point in a musician’s life when they, or their fellow band members, realize that it is time for the failing band member to step down. A time when the sentimentality has to give way to common sense. A time when each individual starts to take responsiblity for their own choices–if not for theirselves, for the good of the band and it’s fans. Tommorrow is the annual Okinawan Peaceful Love Rock Festival finale. My husband’s band will be one of the closing acts. The concert is being recorded in order to be aired on television and over the internet at later dates. All I can do is cross my fingers and hope that my husband’s decision doesn’t wind-up smacking him in the face! When is it time to put the horse out to pasture?

One of the good things about living on an island in the middle of nowhere is it teaches you to appreciate the little things in life. Take Kraft’s macaroni and cheese, for example. Coming from the states where every convenience is available at one’s fingertips, now-a-days that’s literally one’s computer mouse, many of you think finding this particular item is a no brainer. But over here, even in the 21st century, unless you have on-base commissary privileges, there is only one place where it can be found, sporadically. Some of you may think, well just have a friend buy it on base for you. But, I come from a time when friends don’t use friends, especially if it means the possibility of getting that friend in trouble. (Having someone buy commissary products for me could risk that person’s privileges.) But I digress. And even in the 21st century, the island lacks most other basics that make-up part of daily living stateside–wide-open roads, ample parking, a good zoo, amusement parks, decent camping sites, the theater (stage), big-name rock concerts (or big-name anything for that matter). So when I was finally able to find Kraft’s macaroni and cheese, I learned to savor the experience.

As I was posting Koza (1974) pictures to the Ryukyu-no (Okinawan) Rock ??????? website, I began thinking about how some things go full circle. In those days on Okinawa, we would get out of Club Fire at about 5 in the morning. As we walked down the street, we would have to be careful not to step the wrong way. If you did misstep, your foot and half of your leg would end-up in a benjo ditch (sewer). We don’t have to worry about benjo ditches very much anymore. Now when we walk home, it’s regurgitated food, broken bottles, yakitori (B-B-Q chicken) sauce, and passed-out beggars that compose the confidence course. Of course, in 1974 there were a few GIs that always blew off a little too much steam. After all, it was during the Vietnam era. In the past few years Gate 2 Street has, once again, developed into one of the main areas where GIs come to let off a little steam. This year is the first time since the ’70s that I have seen groups of Japanese police patroling the street on foot. One big difference is now there are many locals, young and old, mixed-in with the GIs and numerous American civilians that call Okinawa home, for one reason or another. Maybe twenty years of having the Gate 2/B.C. Street area to theirselves, has made the locals a little less willing to give-up the area. Perhaps, twenty years of basically peaceful communication has created a new generation of locals that are more open-minded to the differences in cultures. Or perhaps, they all just want to have fun!!!

Oh yes it’s summertime on Okinawa! True to form the typhoon season is threatening a postponement of the Peaceful Love Rock Festival. The only reason it’s held during one of the hottest months is because prior records showed that typhoons normally don’t strike the island in July. As if previous records matter two, not one, of the blow-hards are lurking at our door (one on each side of the island). For now, there is the saving grace of a high air pressure system hanging over us and fending off at least one of the massive wind systems.

Ahhhh, Monday morning and another weekend is over. As we begin our 11th year at the club, and my 8th year working there, certain customer behaviors never fail to amaze me. Each week I will list the main nonsensical behavior confronted on Okinawa.

Really!!!-Pet Peeve of the Week #1:

This past weekend the main ongoing nonsensical norm was individuals who think it’s their given right to bring in their own beverages. What drinking establishment is going to allow that to happen, really!!! I suppose they think they should be able to bring their own food to restaurants too! Not only do they try to bring in their own beverages, they become indignant (even confrontational) when told that no outside beverages are allowed. These aren’t one-time incidents, it’s the same people trying repeatedly to do the same thing, sometimes on the same night. If they honestly believe that this is a proper practice, let them open their own club. I bet it would be the most popular club in town, for the brief duration of its existence!

In other local news, Okinawa is hosting the annual Peaceful Love Rock Festival this week. Bands throughout Japan will be flying-in for the event, which is to be televised and broadcast over the internet at later dates. The week is full of local band practices, with each band trying to throw together a brief highlight of the tunes that make them popular with the locals. In hopes of expanding their fan bases, visiting bands contact all the club owners to book brief guest appearances at each venue and try to gain as much exposure to the locals as possible. And as the final days approach, ongoing incessant sound checks. Oh yes, Peaceful Love week is always a challenge that culminates is two days of exploding music.